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McQueen Lives On With A New Name, New Aesthetic

by Gerardo Mendez 11 October 2010 238 views 2 Comments E-mail Gerardo Mendez

Sarah Burton has taken over Alexander McQueen’s label for Spring 2011, and I honestly have to say that she kept the feeling of the collection authentic, while smoothing out just enough of the edges of the late designer, in order to provide a cleaner silhouette. She keeps not only the wow factor and the perfect tailoring, but also enhances the show with a rather graceful memento of colours that do not scream at us, but allow the garment’s composure to be the center of attention.

This article has been a challenge. Choosing only a few pieces to comment on is quite a job, but I did break the collection down into the following memorable moments:

Burton opened with with ensembles. I particularly enjoyed the two piece with the coat. The details on the neck and the shoulders make it distinguishable. The second one, a two piece set with a skirt also shows detail on the neck, flowers that look rather appropriate for any season.

Image via Style.com

Then she goes on to pieces that remind us of McQueen’s fall collection from last year, with his study on colors and flowers. The hip area is accentuated in the three pieces, with a careful focus on the waist that enables a rather perfect silhouette, regardless of the wearer’s body type (in some cases, obviously).

Image via Style.com

We also see influences from the last collection (which was rather sober considering what he usually did), but this time in a shorter form. But the same crafted body and golden influences, make it rather prêt-a-porter.

Image via Style.com

Then Burton shows a darker side of nature with ensembles that, like a series of leaves, cover the body. We also see a progression to to a more natural approach, with an impressive gown. It’s very reminiscent of spring and at the same time with the touch of a greek-goddess.

Image via Style.com

The rest of the collection shows longer gowns. For some reason, even if they are not as elaborate as McQueen’s usual designs, or even if they are not bold statements, they live true to the legacy of the house. This is the best homage the man can receive.