THE CRITIC: Couture Fall 2009
I loved the fact that despite depressions, recessions and beyond, designers are able to come up with incredible ideas. Despite the fact that groups like LVMH (owner of Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Dior, etc.) are not reporting losses, houses like Lacroix have taken serious blows and are in the verge of bankruptcy. However, in these difficult times, I am thrilled for some of the creations I’ll tell you about for Fall 2009– where imagination, and looking back to inspire the future, are some of the highlights.
Armani Privé. Wonderful lines, silhouettes that entice the imagination, an innate sexiness of miniskirts and high heels were predominant in the collection, with monochrome clutches for formal occasions, and the jacket as a sophisticated touch. I loved the dresses hugging the figure, and the luxury of the materials, with shinny pieces that will make any night a special one.
Chanel. As usual, Karl Lagerfeld was highly praised on his designs. I love the asymmetric looks that gowns and skirts provide, as well as the new figure he posses, almost decompressed, showing the back and with a mermaid-like tail in rich fabrics. As if taken out of fairytales, each dress tells a story, be it in black, colors or the beautiful and critically acclaimed dress below.
Inventive, classy, Chanel inspires with long gloves as well as the particular one that seems to cover only the fingers. Overall, a magnificent approach to the magical properties of fashion.
Galliano. As you know, I am deeply inspired by John Galliano’s designs for men, and his couture collection for Dior gets praises in my book (though some critics claim it as not very original). I loved the intensity of orange and pink, as well as the classy bows and hats portrayed throughout the collection. He emphasized the fact that his inspiration came from Dior’s old pictures of models half-dressed before the runways, so he shows attires with no top or underwear showing up. All classic Hollywood cinema of last century, he shows why he is on top of the game.
Gaultier. Critically acclaimed Gaultier shows a collection inspired both in sophisticated two-piece coordinates, as well as oversized pants and overalls, with a futuristic approach in his black trench coat and boots. But he gets a standing ovation for the very Lady-Gaga-like assemblies of leotards with capes. Leotards, in metallic and with shoulders cut to close the eye-candy design, are followed by capes in metallic colors, or even feathers. Honestly, the best I saw for the season.
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