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Mixed Emotions for Men’s Collections 2010

by Gerardo Mendez 6 July 2009 2 Comments E-mail Gerardo Mendez

So many emotions come to me as I roll picture after picture of the collections shown last week. I don’t know what to hate and what to love and in what proportion. The major designers showed their Spring and Summer 2010 collections for men, just a few days after Resort 2010 for women portrayed safe and sound images, for people to invest in pieces that could be worn everywhere, anytime, anyplace. There are two things I can say on men’s fashion for next year: you absolutely need to hit the gym if you want the translucent and tight tops to fit appropriately; and the horizon still seems blurry when it comes to high-fashion making an effort to transcend rather than to sell.

Dior: transparent shirts carefully cut to be tight around the waist and to show a worked-out physique were the hype. Combined with tailored pants and comfortable casual shoes in dark colors, they look perfect for a night out in time. The transparent look transcended to t-shirts and sweaters, all very light-weighted and on classy pants in gray that hold the image of cleanliness and modernity. And well, of course, no socks! My recommendation is the black vest with a tank top in black and jeans instead of pants, ripped jeans always bring a fresher twist to the look.

Image via Men.Instyle.com

Galliano: He has done it again and left me satisfied. Despite some critics stating that he has done the “Jack Sparrow meets world” look, now he has added Lawrence of Arabia, Brit hip and darkness all in one collection. He depicts hats as turbans, iconographic t-shirts in bright colors, topped with brown and yellow jackets and long shorts also in bright colors and prints. The sandals compose a look based on distressed details, as if coming back from the desert and telling the tale. He ventures in a very Burberry direction with long jackets and brown vests and shirts, very classic and chic. The final option is darkness, with dramatic drape-like pants and shirts, transparent like Dior’s, but with the edge of accessories that make the look whole in scarves or metallic applications on jackets. My personal favorite is the long black jacket, embroider on the top. Words cannot describe its perfection. Still, pretty but not groundbreaking.

Image via Men.Instyle.com

Givenchy: I love the fact that Givenchy had black models on his runway, because it has not been a trend lately (as Naomi Campbell and Italian Vogue have denounced in the past). Yet, the collection to me was uninspired, regardless of popular claims. I have the same tank tops in black (and I paid around 24 dollars for each one, not hundreds!). The shorts are decent, but Nike can do very similar for a fraction of the price. However, the boots and ankle-boots look fantastic. I’d wear them with shorts, too, just to show their perfect design, and they are truly my favorite item on his collection.

Image via Men.Instyle.com

Lanvin: This fashion house has been very praised lately. Here it goes again. Perfectly cut pants in luscious fabrics. Tops cut so that the shoulders are emphasized, as well as the waistline. Marvelous shoes and sandals, all vintage-looking. There is a sense of elegance but also of street-know-it-all pranks in the air of the collection. Honestly, I’d wear it all except for the wine pants, I think that color, in that fabric and shade, is a tad difficult, unless you have a perfect tan (which the model, unfortunately, does not have).