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A Sexy SURprise

by Joyce Chen 19 January 2009 711 views 3 Comments E-mail Joyce Chen
Image via Sur

Image via Sur

Step through the billowing curtains that lead into SUR, and it’s almost as though you’ve escaped into a sanctuary of luxury and romance right in the heart of Hollywood. White linen-covered tables topped with wine goblets and flickering candles line the sidewalk patio, and a melt-in-your-seat banquette with silk throw pillows line the left wall, setting off a luxe-boho vibe that keeps patrons feeling good long after the alcohol has set in.

The dinner crowd is trendy without being pretentious; intellectual post-young Hollywood types out for a night of steady conversation or intimate whispers over dessert. Meg Ryan, Penelope Cruz and Ashley Olson frequent this sexy Mediterranean-Californian hub, and the exclusiveness of the restaurant means patrons are simultaneously privy to both privacy and people-watching.

Through the heavy wooden doors that mark the entrance into the main dining area, a giant statue of Shiva, surrounded by a dozen glowing candles, calmly gazes out. It’s zen and a half, and save for the Alanis Morissette covers and Louis Armstrong’s Vie en Rose creeping ever-so-slinkily through the speakers, SUR looks an awful lot like a scene out of Arabian Nights, sans the gaudy drapery and faux-gold embellishments.

To the left, a small lounge with raw wooden tables and tree stump chairs entertain restaurant-goers waiting for the rest of their party and patrons who want to mix and mingle with a little Patron pre-dinner. The drip-wax candles and vines winding in and out of iron-cast figures add a rustic touch to the bar area, and the staff, clad in chic black tops and serious heels, provide the kind of service that comes unexpected from a nicer restaurant in the more pretentious part of Hollywood.

If you’re caught between the “Sangria De Espana” (red wine sangria, a house specialty) or the “Sangria De South America” (a sweeter, white wine sangria), for instance, the servers will happily provide your table with a goblet of each to taste-test before you commit to a full pitcher (this writer recommends the more subtle red wine sangria).

Or, if you’re stuck on a food choice, expect the wait staff to pipe in with their opinions and detailed descriptions of each dish. A true sign of a good restaurant is the knowledge each member of its team has of every aspect of the enterprise, down to the very last side order of sautéed spinach, and based on its wait staff’s expertise, it’s hard to judge SUR as anything less than fantastic even before the food arrives.

And the food does indeed live up to the ambience build-up. SUR, which produces a healthy menu of classic California standards – pepper-crusted seared Ahi tuna, shrimp fettucini and meat loaf are among the staples – hits high notes with its pasta and chicken dishes.

Most notable are the crab gorgonzola risotto, which holds its own without being overly heavy or excessively cheesy, and the roasted garlic chicken breast, which soars in its simplicity. The lemon picatta boneless chicken breast was a top pick as well, with a zesty citrus twang contributing to an otherwise already well-seasoned, moist main dish.

For dessert, the choices are standard but executed well. Nothing finishes off a meal like a New York cheesecake or an old-fashioned chocolate cake filled with chocolate buttercream, both of which are whipped to minimally sweet perfection. The New York cheesecake, drizzled with a tangy raspberry sauce, is best shared, though, given the amount of food and sangria that will undoubtedly be nestled in your stomach by then.

And with celebs like America’s Next Top Model’s Mr. Jay and Catherine Zeta Jones breezing through the curtains to join you in the seclusion of SUR’s top-notch lavish luxury, the last thing you’ll want is a post-meal belly.

***
Rating: 3.5 out of 4

An average entrée ranges from $20-$30, and sangria runs at $10 a glass, $35 per bottle. Expect to have a comfortable meal for two for just under $80.

606 N Robertson Blvd
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(310) 289-2824
www.sur-restaurant.com

Hours:
Mon-Fri. 12:00 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Sat-Sun. 5:30 p.m. – 11:00 p.m.
Parking
Valet

Attire
Sexy-casual

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3 Comments »

  • kill said:

    Great review!

  • Gina D said:

    That food sounds amazing, how much of it did you actually try?

  • Joyce said:

    The food WAS amazing. I had the crab gorgonzola risotto and a (healthy!) sampling of my friends’ dishes. The cheesecake really was to die for, and the sangria is delish!

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